The San Juan is a river that presents both
challenge and tremendous opportunity to the Fly Fisherman.
You can catch fish with many methods and without extensive fly
fishing skills, but your overall fly fishing skill and
willingness to recognize the current conditions and adapt to
them will determine how many fish you catch. During a day
various parts of the Quality Water will present different
angling opportunities, so what is happening on one part of the
river may be different than what is happening upstream or
downstream. Dry fly fishing may be great in one location
for a while but not successful upstream or downstream.
This is the nature of fly fishing, to be
successful on a
consistent basis we need to fish imitations to trout that mimic
the naturals that they are feeding on at the time.
To be a successful fly fisherman it helps to look at the river
from a trout's perspective. Trout need regular access to
food, shelter from predators and protection from heavy currents.
In rivers trout do not generally have to pursue food as a
moderate current will bring the food produced upstream to them.
When trout are interested in feeding, they will often move from
sheltering lies to feeding stations located in moderate
currents, riffles, tailouts, or along current seams.
A trout positioned next to a current seam can maintain position
relatively easily in slow current but quickly move into faster
water to intercept a food item and then return to slower water.
Riffles are not always heavily populated with trout, but when
there is food available fish move into riffles and hold behind
or in front of rocks or in bottom depressions and then move to
capture food items. They cannot hold for long in heavy
current but will move into faster water to take food items
and then retreat to current relieved positions. Protection
from predators is important also and comes from their natural camoflage, depth and
avoidance of brightly lit areas. While fish are actively
feeding you can fish for them at their feeding stations, when
they are not actively feeding you will need to fish for them
where they seek cover, depth, predator and current relief. The San
Juan presents many different water types including riffles,
runs, deep runs, pools, slow pools, flats, tailouts, shallow
estuaries and some pocket water. At some point in each day
most of these areas can be successful, but you will need to
adapt your techniques to match the water speed, depth, clarity
and season.
Trout feed on naturals at different depths. When there is
a hatch on trout will feed on rising pupal forms as they ascend
to the surface to morph into adults. Some of these
naturals rise with the help of gas bubbles trapped in their
shuck, while others are active swimmers. During hatches,
emerger patterns of different types can be
successful at several
depths, especially if there is an upward movement simulating a
rising pupal emerger. Emerging pupal naturals are often at
their most vulnerable when they get close to the surface, as
they have not yet shed their pupal shuck. Trout feeding on
these emergers just below the surface will often create a
visible riseform, the dorsal fin or tail may be visible on the
surface but the head usually is not. These rises to Midge
and mayfly emergers are generally slow, deliberate rise forms as
the trout does not need to be in a hurry to get the bug.
Rises to Caddis emergers and adults are different - these bugs
are mobile and trout often leave fast, spashy rises when
pursuing caddis. Once a hatch is over the surface and most
of the water column have fewer food opportunities for trout.
The water column will still contain drifting naturals such as
larva and pupa, but in smaller numbers than during a hatch.
Trout will sometimes cruise the water column and just under the
surface looking for targets of opportunity between hatches, but
you are generally more likely to find them in their sheltering
lies, usually next to the bottom, behind a rock or in a
depression. During hatches, when fish are feeding on
rising pupa, emergers or adults, you can catch a lot of fish in
a short period of time by matching the hatch. The San Juan
generally has reliable Midge hatches, one during mid morning and
the other in the afternoon or evening. Baetis generally
hatch in late morning or early afternoon and are more prolific
on overcast days.
It is likely that a lot of your fishing time on the river will
be when there is not a hatch on, or more typically, you are
between hatches. During these periods, you
can still catch fish but you will need to fish differently.
Try pupal and larva forms of naturals for the area you're
fishing dead drifted close to the bottom, as this is where most
of the fish will be - especially Bubba. Patterns would
include San Juan Worms, small annelids, baetis Nymphs, Scud and
Midge pupa patterns. This will often be the case if you
fish early in the morning, between the morning and afternoon
hatch, or into the evening.
Nymph Fishing The most successful fishermen on the San Juan catch the majority
of their trout fishing Nymphs below the surface. Sometimes
these will be pupal emergers just below the surface, pupa rising
to the surface, or drifting larva and pupa. There are
many different presentations including upstream, downstream, up
and across, down and across, etc. All of these methods
will catch trout effectively if they put the right fly at the
right depth without any drag. You can cast many different
ways, but you need to present the fly at the appropriate depth
without drag, and with as tight a line as possible. A fly
on a completely taught line will not drift naturally and will
rise to the surface once it is downstream of the fishermen -
this presentation will not catch fish often when fish are
feeding on dead drifting naturals, but may be successful when
pupa are rising to the surface to hatch into adults.
Ideally, you would have just enough slack between the strike
indicator and the fly to allow a natural drift and very miminal
slack from the reel to the strike indicator. This
combination requiring some slack at the fly end to prevent drag
and fairly tight line up to the indicator is difficult to
maintain as you drift through varying currents, but the better
you are able to do this over different length casts and
different current conditions between you and the indicator the
better you will do. No matter how you cast, you need to have enough slack in the
line and leader initially to allow the artifical to sink
naturally to the correct level, but the less slack that you
have, the quicker you can react to a fish strike. If you
have too much slack in the line, a fish can often take in a
Nymph, sample it, and without you knowing spit the Nymph out
without the angler ever being aware that the fish took the fly!
Many fishermen do not believe this until they are able to watch
it happen - and it does. Once you cast, you will often
need to mend the fly line upstream or downstream one or more
times to maintain a natural drift. Mending without
disturbing the natural drift cannot be done without sufficient slack in the
line between you and the indicator. Once the fly has sunk to fishing depth you will need
to manipulate the rod and line to maintain the natural drift as
long as possible. This can be done by gently lifting or
lowering the rod tip, or by taking in line by hand and then
carefully feeding it out to extend the drift. It also
helps to follow the drift by pointing your rod tip toward the
indicator as it moves downstream with the current. At the
end of the drift the current
will take all the slack out of the line and the fly/flies
will begin to rise to the surface. This rise simulates
emerging pupa and can induce strikes, so be patient and do not assume that the
fishing portion of the presentation is over once the dead drift
has stopped for a Nymph pattern.
The most consistently successfuly Nymph fishermen generally use
a strike indicator combined with small amounts of weight about
12"-18" above the fly. If you have the right fly, you will
still need to adjust the strike indicator and amount of weight
to the water depth and speed that you are fishing. The
more weight that you use, the
less naturally that the fly will
drift. A strike indicator that is too close to the fly
will also prevent it from drifting naturally, and one that is
too far away from the fly may not provide an indication that a
strike has occurred until its too late. Use only as much
weight as you need and keep the indicator as close to the fly as
you can, typically 1 1/2 times the water depth, without causing
drag. The right combination of weight along with the
correct position of the strike indicator has an important impact
on your success.
Most fly fishermen on the San Juan fish a two fly rig.
Begin with a 9' or 7 1/2' 4x or 5x tapered leader attached
to the fly line with a loop to loop connection or a nail knot. Tie
on a 4x to 7x tippet section of about 18" using a surgeons knot
or a blood knot. Tie the first fly to the end of the
tippet and attach the weight above the first knot at the end of
the leader. The knot will prevent the weight from slipping
down to the fly. Tie a second tippet section to the eye of
the first hook or the bend of the hook using a clinch knot and
then tie the second fly about 12" - 18" from the first fly.
Position the Strike Indicator 1 1/2 times the depth of the water
from the weight. A 2 fly setup is more difficult to cast
without tangling than a 1 fly setup - cast carefully. For
the fly line use a floating Double Taper or Weight Forward fly
line.
Use the minimum amount of weight
possible when fishing in the water column so that your
presentation will drift more naturally.
The closer your strike indicator is to your fly without
spooking fish or causing drag the better off you will be as you will be able to detect strikes
sooner.
Your line needs to be as tight as possible without
causing drag, but you still need enough slack to mend
effectively.

Dry Fly Fishing
For many Fly Fishermen dry fly fishing is their preference. It
is exciting to see a trout rise to your fly and take it as a
natural. As with Nymph fishing, you can catch fish with many
different types of casts including upstream, downstream, across
and up, across and across and down. A drag free drift is
critical to success when dry fly fishing - when the fly starts
to drag across the water pick it up and cast again. As with
Nymph fishing, when dry fly fishing you may often need to mend
your line once or more upstream or downstream depending on
currents. Sometimes intentionally moving a dry fly will induce
a strike, as mayfly and caddis naturals do move on the surface.
When intentionally moving a dry fly while fishing for rising
Mayflies be very subtle with the movement, caddis adults allow
more movement. When setting the hook while dry fly fishing give
the fish a chance to turn its head down before striking. If you
strike too soon, it is possible to pull the fly away from the
fish. You do not need to cast far to be an effective dry fly
fisherman, line control and drag free floats are usually more
important than distance. Some top water fishermen find that
fishing a 2 fly rig with a dry fly as the first fly and an
emerger as the second is an effective method for catching trout
feeding on or just under the surface. The attractor fly
functions as a strike indicator when the fish takes the emerger
or can be taken on the surface as an adult.
Streamer Fishing
Skillful streamer fishermen can catch fish on the San Juan,
although genenerally not as many fish as a successful Nymph
fisherman. Generally you want to cast down and across with
a slow, stripping retrieve. After you have cast to an
area, take a step or two downstream and repeat the same cast
progressively working your way
downstream. By using this
method you can systematically cover the water and pick up fish.
Streamer Fishing can be productive between hatches when the fish
have
stopped responding to Nymphs. Streamer fishing
generally is most successful with a Weight Forward Sink Tip line
and a fairly stout, relatively short leader, generally no longer
than 6'. The diameter of
the leader (lbs test) will effect its ability to handle repeated casting
and double hauls. Fluorocarbon is a good leader material
for streamer fishing as it sinks better than monofiliment and is
less visible to fish. You probably do not need a
traditional tapered leader when streamer fishing, you may want
to consider a hand made leader of fluorocarbon material.
Start with a heavy section nail knotted to your fly line (about
15 lb test) for about 2' and then step down once or twice using
smaller leader materials for a total length of about 4' - 6'.
If you are fishing large weighted streamers in sizes 2 and 4 you
will probably want to use 10 lb test for the final connection,
anything less does not stand up well to repetitive casting and you will loose
flies unnecessarily.


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